The Tale of Two Temples

It was the best of times, it was the worst of times. This opening line from a Dickensian novel is perhaps most suitable to describe a trip to the Konark Sun temple and Puri’s Jagannath temple. Two completely different experiences just 50 kilometres apart.  One is the beacon of early Indian artistry while the other is the holy grail of spirituality for millions. Both are two of the few gems of Odisha and are usually visited by many in a single day owing to their proximity with each other. The onlooker is left comparing and contrasting the dual experiences and this piece of writing is no aberration.

Konark Sun temple is a time machine. You travel through hyperspace and reach an era that was 800 years ago. The time machine is a chariot drawn by seven majestic horses of the sun god-Surya. Each of 24 wheels is carved intricately by the dexterous hands of 13^th century craftsmen. The wheels, the walls, the halls and the galleries, all tell a story of their own. One tells of the ten avatars of Vishnu, another tells of the daily rituals in the life of a woman. Distinct and different yet echoing the same thought of what the life and society used to be like. This is when the time traveller realises that her own time and age is a resonance of what was the common thought of 13^th century. In the stone carvings, she sees a woman waking up at dawn, then getting busy with her shringar rituals, going out for shikar, coming back home to cook and later spending quality time with her husband and family.

                 

The Maithunas tell of the widely explored territory of sexual passions and desires. The various ways of pleasing the partner and with the act of love making, reaching a force stronger than you. The scene in Jagannath temple is entirely different. One is supposed to cover heads, cut sleeve dresses are a strict no. The people ogle at women who ‘dare’ to dress themselves in western clothes and ironically, lustful eyes are often seen. Our predecessors were perhaps more liberal in their idea of sex and gender.

The issue of hygiene is another point to ponder upon. Of all the places in the world, a temple is the one place which is expected to be most clean and tidy but the Jagannath temple of Puri will prove you wrong. It is one of the Chaar Dhaams of Hinduism yet the attention paid towards cleanliness is negligible. The daily footfall in the temple is in thousands and therefore the risk of contamination and infection is large. The dining area is in shambles. Cockroaches, lizards, centipedes are frequent pilgrims and are entertained with equal considerations as their human counterparts. The flies invade eatables, surf on plates and dishes. Contaminated and filthy water is put to use again and again until it runs black. The administrators of the temple are seen to be taking “reuse and recycle” much too seriously. The temple’s worst competitor, Konark on the other hand is running ahead in the race. No roaches, pests, reptiles to be seen in near vicinity. Clean and chilled water available free of cost with a clean and tidy kiosk for snacks and eatables. The bushes are well maintained and all the artwork is regularly cleaned and polished.

Now the real question should take the centerstage. Why indeed does this disparity come to play? The same state government, the same kind of people yet such different experience? The answer is ‘religion’. One of the most intriguing facts about Konark Sun temple is that it has no concept of worship and routine rituals of pooja. There are no priests, no idols inside the chambers, no daily aarti, no prasad distribution, no daan-dakshina and also no corruption and profiteering.

The audience that gathers in the Konark Sun temple is there only to experience the true aesthetic heritage that we have behind ourselves. A rich past and a culture of gifted intellectuals and ancestors. In Puri though, the corruption and business mindedness is so rampant that they do nothing to conceal it. The police officials watch with stony eyes while the pandas carry out with their money making manoeuvres in broad daylight. One will ask you for Rs 25 for a closer access to the holy trinity in the sanctum sanctorum of the temple. One will hit you with ashirwaad wali chari (the stick of blessings) whether you ask them or not and will later push you to give him money. They charge incredulous amount of money from the oblivious outsiders who are unknown to their cunning. Bhog committee, Daan Committee, you name it they have it.  A fully fledged business has sprouted from what is supposed to be a selfless job.

This opinion might stink of prejudices and biased viewpoint to some and perhaps the allegation does hold some truth. But the calm, the spiritual exercise, the peace and tranquillity and that connect with the supreme power was felt in Konark rather than in Puri. The outrageous corruption committed by his worshipers lessened the calming effect of Jagannath.